Top 5 places to escape the tourists in Barcelona
In the summer, it’s well known that Barcelona can get pretty crowded. Outside sites like Sagrada Familia and Casa Batlló, your agility might be put to the test as you have to duck swirling selfie sticks and tour guides’ umbrellas. Don’t get me wrong. These are still incredible places to visit, and I’m not suggesting you don’t go. However, there might come a point when you want to escape the tourists in Barcelona. And if that’s the case, you’ve come to the right place. Read on to discover some places that will happily offer you a bit of a refuge. They’ll also give you a more genuine view of the city the locals call home.
1. The Monastery of Pedralbes and Carretera de les Aigües
If you want to escape the tourists in Barcelona, head for the hills. Take the L6 line up to Reina Elisenda, and when you get out of the station take a right. Eventually you’ll arrive at the idyllic Monastery of Pedralbes. The Monastery dates back to the 14th century and is just about the most peaceful place in the city. It’s also unusually cool, which cannot be said of too many places in the city in the summer. So you can escape the tourists and the heat at the same time!
Once you’ve gathered your thoughts and cooled down in the Monastery, swing a left when you leave and head up to the hills behind it. Several paths lead up through Parc de l’Oreneta, which comes with a slightly quirky miniature train for kids.
At the top of the park you’ll eventually come to a path called Carretera de les Aigües, which runs along the foothills at the back of the city. The views from here are pretty incredible and, unlike at Park Güell, you won’t be sharing them with other tourists. There’s nobody trying to sell you anything here. You’re more likely to see locals running or walking their dogs.
2. Sarrià
Once you’ve admired the spectacular views on offer on Carretera de les Aigües, head back down the hill towards the barrio of Sarrià. Like Gràcia on the other side of the city, Sarrià used to be a town in its own right before Barcelona expanded and swallowed it up. You can still see this in the architecture and the general vibe of the place. Sarrià has a different feel to other neighbourhoods in the city. It’s a rather well-to-do area. It’s not that common to see actual houses with gardens in Barcelona, but they exist in Sarrià alongside plush apartment complexes.
There aren’t really any must-see sites in Sarrià, which means it’s a pretty good spot to escape the tourists in Barcelona. Not many of them make it up there, aside from the tourist bus that takes in the Monastery. But it’s well worth having a walk around the pretty barrio. Its squares are perfect for watching the world go by.
If you get hungry, check out Foix de Sarrià where, if you’re anything like me, you’ll probably spend at least 20 minutes deciding which incredible looking cake you’re going to take away with you.
3. Poblenou
One of the places you’re most likely to want to escape the tourists in Barcelona is the beach at Barceloneta. In the summer it can feel like you’re under attack from the segways, while the sand is at a bit of a premium to say the least. But there are other beaches in Barcelona. They’re just not as central or convenient as Barceloneta, so not as many tourists visit them.
One of these beaches is about a 20-30 minute walk along the coast at Poblenou. This area used to be known as the Manchester of Catalonia due to the industry of the place. You can still see the odd chimney rising up behind apartment blocks, but now the old industrial spaces are more likely to hold co-working spaces or a design agency. Poblenou, you see, is a bit hipster these days.
The barrio comes with a beach, but it also has some amazing tapas bars and a really local feel to it. If you’ve had a swim and fancy a bite to eat, check out La Pubilla del Taulat, where the locals spill out onto the street in the evening. And if you’re around a bit later and feel like going for a drink, Balius Bar is one of the coolest in the city. After all, how many other bars do you know that used to be a hardware shop?
4. Horta
Ok, it’s true, Horta is quite far from the centre of the city. But it really doesn’t take that long to get there. And what’s more, it’s probably one of the most local, genuine areas in Barcelona. Other areas in the city might be tired of tourism, but in Horta it’s extremely unlikely that you’ll see any tourists at all.
So, why visit? First of all, the food is great. In some more touristy areas of Barcelona, the quality of the food has taken a hit, but not here. It’s also a lot cheaper. La Esquinica is a great example of what I’m talking about. Locals queue to get into this place, and my advice would be to join that queue as it’s worth the wait! Another great option in the neighbourhood is Quimet d’Horta, where you can sit outside in the sun and get a sense of what this barrio is all about.
While you’re in Horta, check out Parc del Laberint d’Horta at the top of the hill. It’s a beautiful park with a maze. It’s about as far as you can get from the hustle and bustle of the famous tourist sites a few miles to the south.
5. Plaça Sant Felip Neri
Listing a place to escape the tourists in Barcelona that is slap-bang in the middle of the Gothic Quarter might sound somewhat paradoxical, but bear with me. This beautiful, serene spot might be surrounded by some of the busiest parts of the city, but it’s largely free of tourists. And I think I know why. It’s quite hard to find. I’ve occasionally tried to take family or friends who have visited me and have had to get my phone out several times to check Google Maps.
If you do manage to make it here, you won’t be disappointed. The square has a little school attached to it so there are normally kids running around, but what you’ll notice above anything else are the holes in the wall. Bombs fell in the square in January 1938 during the Spanish Civil War, killing 42 people. The wounded facades have been left as they were made that day as a reminder. It definitely adds something to what is already a contemplative place.
Well, there you have it. Barcelona doesn’t have to be about selfie sticks and segways. There are still parts of the city where the locals would do a double-take if they saw either.