It’s a little bit chilly right now in Barcelona. In fact, it’s about as cold as it gets in the winter time. However, the cold doesn’t tend to hang around for too long in the Catalan capital. If, like me, you’re from a place with longer, colder winters, then I’m sure you’ll absolutely love Barcelona in winter time.

This week is proof that it can get a bit cold in Barcelona in winter. But compared to cities on the east coast of the US or in Northern Europe, the city is normally incredibly mild. I’m English, and it always surprises me when I see the locals in Barcelona wrapped up with enormous coats and scarves when it’s 15 degrees outside (a fairly normal daytime temperature in December.)

I suppose it depends on the weather that you’re used to. To me it’s odd that 15 degrees is seen as “a bit chilly” for Barcelona natives. In England you can probably get away with a t-shirt in 15 degrees without any funny looks.

Not in Barcelona, however. As a Guiri (foreigner) in the city, I’ve found myself wearing extra, unnecessary layers just to fit in. Or perhaps Barcelona has changed my perception of what cold is. I’ve spent a lot of time in London recently and I’m sure I’m wearing a lot more layers there than I used to before I moved to Barcelona.

Barcelona in winter – one of the best times to visit the city

I’ve often said that my favourite time of year in Barcelona is the winter. It’s when I’ve truly appreciated living in the city the most.

Much more than in summer, anyway.

Visiting Barcelona in July or August might be a more obvious choice. However, if you did visit the city at that time, you’d notice that about a million other tourists had the same idea, that all the locals have either left or are waiting to leave, that the city beaches are absolutely packed, and that you can’t walk 200 metres down the street without feeling a few beads of sweat trickling down your back.

Admittedly, my skin probably isn’t designed for the summer in Barcelona, but July and August are definitely my least favourite months of the year there.

Being in Barcelona in winter is particularly satisfying because you feel like you’re cheating winter. It’s like you’re skipping it altogether. Barcelona winters are a bit like an extended autumn (and a mild autumn at that), with two or three weeks of colder weather in either January or February where you might actually have to wear a reasonably thick coat. At all other times a jumper or light jacket will normally suffice.

And yes, the sun still shines most days!

What to do in Barcelona in winter

So, if you take my advice and do decide to visit Barcelona in winter, what can you expect to see or do?

My first suggestion would be to just walk around and explore. Unsurprisingly it’s a lot quieter at this time of year than the spring or summer. Therefore you can really discover the Gothic Quarter and El Born without getting stuck behind an enormous tour group, or worse still, people riding Segways.

The streets are quieter. They’re more peaceful. And generally people seem much more relaxed.

There’s been a lot of publicity about anti-tourist feeling in Barcelona in recent years, which probably hit its peak this summer. However, it’s quite unlikely that you’d experience any animosity in the winter. In the summer months, Barcelona can feel like an extreme tourism experiment, with thousands of people stepping off cruise ships each day. The vibe is very different in Barcelona in winter time.

Caga Tió

December is a particularly fun time to visit Barcelona. You can experience not only the Christmas lights and markets dotted around the city, but also the quirky Catalan Christmas traditions. These include a log with a face painted at one end called Tió de Nadal, or Caga Tió. You’ll see him everywhere in Barcelona in the run-up to Christmas. He’s essentially the Catalan version of Santa.  Kids hit him with sticks and sing a hilarious song pleading with him to poop out presents.

So yes, maybe he’s a little bit different to Santa.

Another Christmas tradition is to go for a hot chocolate in one of the old cafes in the city. Petritxol Xocoa is one of the best. Be warned though – this isn’t a hot chocolate as you might know it. It’s literally a bar of dark chocolate melted in a cup. It’s incredibly rich, but also delicious.

Barcelona in the New Year

The temperature might drop slightly after Christmas, but it’s still not normally too cold. What’s more, there are lots of interesting things happening in the city in January and February.

Although Christmas Day is increasingly seen as the big day in Catalonia – especially by kids – Los Reyes (The Three Kings) is celebrated on January 6th and is still a big deal. It’s basically like having two Christmases. The night before there’s a parade in the centre of the city where The Three Kings themselves throw sweets to kids who line the street.

In February, there’s a great festival to celebrate Santa Eulalia – the co-patron saint of Barcelona – on the 12th. In a scene that’s repeated in other festivals in the city, giant models are paraded around to music. Thousands of locals follow the giants through the tight, narrow alleyways of the Gothic Quarter until they reach Plaça de Sant Jaume.

Calçots

To a lot of locals, winter in Barcelona means one thing – calçots. A kind of giant spring onion, the calçot draws thousands of people to neighbourhood events called calçotadas, where they’re eaten with romesco sauce. It’s about as messy as it looks. There’s definitely a technique, but sadly I’m yet to master it.

So, calçots, weird Christmas logs, giant Saints marching around. I haven’t put you off, have I?

No, but seriously, Barcelona in winter is quirky and brilliant. It offers a much more normal view of the real city than the one you get in the summer months. You’re going to love it.