Returning to a place that you used to call home can produce a strange emotion that seems to somehow straddle sadness and joy at the same time.

This local’s guide to Barcelona introduces you to the Barcelona that locals call home, rather than the more obvious tourist sites. I hope it inspires you when planning your next trip to Barcelona.

Follow the fuzzy, cantaloupe glow of the street lights and the grumbling mopeds. Eventually they’ll guide you to the squares of Gràcia. Martyred saints hang just above a doorway. Relics of another time before an organic food shop was a thing.

If you’re in Barcelona in the spring, keep a lookout for a neighbourhood calçotada. It’s a great way to be less of a guiri (tourist) and to try to get to know some of the locals.

Barcelona in winter is quirky and brilliant, and offers a much more realistic view of the city than the one you get in the summer months. You’ll love it.

I realised that in a way, the view from my balcony that I had admired so much had also been like a view of Catalonia itself. Of the changing political landscape.

Now, when I’m not there, I miss the light of Barcelona too. If you live in the city, you get used to waking up to an apricot glow, squeezing through the shutters and slowly creeping up the walls of the flat.

The more the world shrinks and everywhere begins to look the same, the more I think we should celebrate quirky, local customs. And Barcelona has plenty of those.

Barcelona was fundamentally changed by the 1992 Olympics. “Para siempre”. The city still feels those changes to this day.

There might come a point where you want to escape the tourists in Barcelona. And if that’s the case, these places will happily offer you a bit of a refuge.